Remodeling a Bathroom with a New Solid-Surface Countertop
Got a bathroom that is starting to show its age? Your first impulse might be to tear out all the fixtures and cabinets and start from scratch. But keep in mind, a total bathroom remodel can cost several thousand dollars and drag on for a month or longer. Fortunately, most worn-out bathrooms only need to be updated, not renovated.
In this project, we will revive a tired-looking bathroom by replacing an existing vanity top with a beautiful dark-colored solid-surface counter and white scalloped sink.
ASSEMBLY
The first step is to close the hot and cold water shutoff valves under the sink. Then disconnect the water supply lines from the faucet and remove the trap from the drain.
If the existing vanity top is trimmed with a separate backsplash, remove it. If it won’t budge, use two pry bars: Place one under the backsplash and the other behind it, then pry up and out at the same time. Remove the upper drawers from the vanity cabinet and check the corner braces for screws driven into the countertop. Back out any screws and lift off the counter.
Lay the new top upside down on a padded surface. It comes precut with the sink cutout and center hole for the faucet. If you are installing a single-handle faucet, there aren’t any additional holes to drill. However, for a widespread faucet, the one with separate handles, you will need to drill two new handle holes. But don’t worry; the underside of the vanity top is pre-marked with starter holes that show exactly where to drill. First, drill a ¼-inch diameter hole at each faucet handle location. Then turn over the top and enlarge the holes using the 1 3/8-inch diameter hole saw that comes with the prefab top.
Next, attach the faucet’s drain assembly to the sink bowl. Be sure to run a bead of plumber’s putty under the drain flange before tightening the lock nut. Now turn over the sink bowl and apply a continuous bead of clear silicone adhesive all the way around its rim. Center the sink over the cutout, the press it down against the underside of the vanity top. Secure the sink with the four steel clips and screws provided. Clean up any silicone squeeze-out, and then let the silicone cure for an hour before installing the faucet.
INSTALLATION
With the sink and faucet attached, the top is now ready to be installed onto the vanity. Start by laying a bead of silicone adhesive along the top edge of the cabinet, including the wood hanging rail at the wall. Carefully lift the top into position and set its rear edge down first. Slowly lower the front edge, making sure the sink bowl clears the front of the cabinet. The weight of the top is usually sufficient to hold it in place, but if necessary, clamp it down. Go below the sink and make the plumbing hookups to the new drain and faucet. Also attach the pop-up drain plug to the pivot rod coming out the rear of the drain body. Turn the water on and test for leaks.
The last step is to install the backsplashes along the rear edge and ends of the top. The ones offered by American Standard are 3 inches high, but if you want something a bit more substantial, you can have a local fabricator make higher backsplashes for you.
Before you install them, glue a strip of ¼-inch thick hardboard to each end wall. Adhere the backsplash pieces to the walls with silicone adhesive; before pressing them into place, apply two dabs of hot-melt glue. The fast-setting glue will hold the pieces in place until the silicone cures. Finish by caulking the end gaps created by the hardboard strips and the joint where the backsplash meets the counter.
Now all you need to complete your updated bathroom are a few new towels, a new shower curtain, and some stylish bath accessories.
SUMMARY
1. Use two thin pry bars to remove the old backsplash. Make sure to protect the existing wall surface with wood shims.
2. Use the pre-marked starter holes to locate the faucet handle holes. Bore through the solid-surface top with a ¼-in.-dia. bit.
3. Turn over the top and cut out the two faucet handle holes using the 1 3/8-in.-dia. hole saw that is provided.
4. Tighten the drain assembly onto the sink bowl. Be sure the T-fitting for the pop-up drain faces toward the rear.
5. Apply a thick, continuous bead of clear silicone all the way around the lip of the under mount sink bowl.
6. Turn the screw into the threaded brass insert buried in the top. Then tighten the wing nut to secure the sink.
7. Save yourself some trouble by attaching the faucet spout and handles before you install the vanity top.
8. Run a bead of silicone adhesive along the wood hanging rail and the top edges of the bath cabinet.
9. Lift the top into place, and then slowly lower it down. Check to make sure that the sink bowl clears the cabinet front.
10. Apply silicone to the backsplash, and then squeeze out two dabs of hot-melt glue. Quickly press the splash to the wall.
